Puglia
Flight of 5 wines $16 with 3 additional for purchase.
The relatively flat topography of Puglia, the warm climate, and the rich sand-clay soils make the region an agricultural haven. These features also enable Puglia to be a volume leader when it comes to grape growing in Italy; it easily vies with the Veneto and Emilia-Romagna for the distinction of the region that produces the most wine. The spectrum of grapes grown here is noteworthy, too; this is crucial to Puglia’s great cultural—and agricultural—heritage. But this abundance can make it challenging to zero in on wines made with thoughtful intention and care; there are countless gallons to wade through, and while more small, family producers are emerging, large corporations still dominate the marketplace.
Searching for the gems, though, comes with rewards. Years ago, Primitivo (named for its tendency to ripen early) was the first Puglian grape I really tried to grasp. The native grape has a famous California twin, Zinfandel, making it an approachable place to start. Plus, there was a good amount of it coming into the States in the early 2000s. It wasn’t until I had the chance to visit Puglia that it became clear that Primitivo accounted for a relatively small concentration of plantings (mainly in the Manduria, Gioia del Colle, and Salice Salentino areas) when compared with the vast sea of Negroamaro.
Borgo dei Trulli Primitivo Rosato 2025 $21 - An elegant pink with tones of seashells and peonies, this wine expresses scents and flavours of strawberries, Passion Fruit, watermelon and orange blossom. The palate is full, fresh and crisp, with good acidity and a lingering sensation of citrus fruit and minerals.
Copertino Riserva 2017 Negroamaro $17 - Hailing from the deep south of Italy, Copertino is a truly unique red wine. There is only one producer available in Massachusetts - the Cupertinum Cantina Sociale Cooperativa di Copertino, a group of one thousand growers who own about an acre each on average. The wine is aged to perfection at the winery so it is at its complex, resolved best when it arrives on our shores. Old school in all the right ways, this blend of Negroamaro and Malvasia Nera is an earth-first red with integrated tannins and loads of local spice.
Copertino Primitivo 2023 $20 - An umami and earthy nose offers aromas of new leather, balsamic and top soil, but also a saline freshness. The palate brings more earth and salt, which fit well within the structure provided by lean tannins, but also the energy of tart blackberries, spicy pepper and a blast of acid.
Pietraǹentosa "Volere Volare" Primitiǹo Puglia IGT 2022 $24 - Supple, fresh, and medium-bodied with an energetic, crunchy fruit core, blood orange acidity, soft tobacco, and chalky minerality. It leads with intense aromas of ripe blackberries, cherries, and violets, layered with unique notes of Mediterranean scrub, rosemary, sage flowers, and a hint of chili pepper.
Antica Enotria Puglia Rosso Nellamiaterra 2023 $22 - Antica Enotria Puglia Rosso, organic red wine from Puglia, Montepulciano, Nero di Troia, Sangiovese. Characteristic bouquet of cherries and forest berries. On the palate it is smooth and dry, with balanced tannins and a good freshness. Blended Nero di Troia and Sangiovese, aged in stainless steel tanks for 7months.
Bonus Wines
Antica Enotria Bianco Nellamiaterra 2024 $22 - Falanghina, Fiano. The wines are made with native varieties, in this case Falanghina and Fiano, which despite the heat can make wines that retain freshness and balance. Expect heaps of lean citrus fruit.
Antica Enotria Nero di Troia 2022 $32 - Nero di Troia - also known as Uva di Troia - is a red grape variety native to northern Puglia, particularly around the provinces of Foggia and Barletta-Andria-Trani, near where Madri Leone farms its vineyards.
Its name likely comes from the ancient town of Troia, but myths link it to Greek heroes and the aftermath of the Trojan War. While the history may be hazy, the grape’s identity is anything but: structured, aromatic, and powerful, it’s one of Puglia’s most important indigenous varieties.
Pietraventosa Riserva Primitivo Puglia IGT 2019 $59 - The Riserva comes from 50-year-old, head-trained vines. The soils are made up predominately of limestone with a top layer of iron-rich, red clay. Dark fruits, rich palate, spice and vibrant acid.