Wines of Southern Italy 4 - 8pm $16 for 5 pours with 3 additional for purchase
The relatively flat topography of Puglia, the warm climate, and the rich sand-clay soils make the region an agricultural haven. These features also enable Puglia to be a volume leader when it comes to grape growing in Italy; it easily vies with the Veneto and Emilia-Romagna for the distinction of the region that produces the most wine. The spectrum of grapes grown here is noteworthy, too; this is crucial to Puglia’s great cultural—and agricultural—heritage. But this abundance can make it challenging to zero in on wines made with thoughtful intention and care; there are countless gallons to wade through, and while more small, family producers are emerging, large corporations still dominate the marketplace.
Sardinia, Sardegna in Italian, is more than an island, it is only just part of Italy. For much of its modern winemaking history it was governed from Spain, and many of its distinctive local grape varieties such as Bovale Sardo (Graciano), Bovale Grande (Mazuelo) and Cannonau (Garnacha) are Spanish in origin. (This is just one of scores of examples of social history being reflected in a country's vineyards.)
The island lies between Corsica and Sicily, both in terms of geography and wine. Like Corsica, it experienced a late 20th century boom and bust in heavily subsidised new vine plantings. Like Sicily, it now shows signs of real potential and determination to make the most of its own raw ingredients.
Most of its produce is varietally labelled, some of it is aggressively modern and characterless (the co-operatives ruled without vision until recently).
Campania is located in the southern part of the Italian peninsula, facing the Tyrrhenian Sea, in what might be called the shin of the peninsula’s boot. Its capital and largest city is Naples (Napoli). Tourists know Campania for the city of Naples, the ruins of Pompeii, the isle of Capri, and the beautiful Amalfi Coast. In the wine world, Campania is best known for red wines made from Aglianico such as Taurasi, and for white wines made from Falanghina, Fiano, and Greco. It has 4 DOCGs, 15 DOCs (see map on this page), and 10 IGPs. In 2022, Campania had 25,600 ha (63,230 acres) of registered vineyards, producing almost 1.5 million hl (16.4 million cases) of wine—mostly table wine with only 19% of it at the DOP level. The region’s primary grape variety is Aglianico (34%).
The vineyards on the toe of Italy are as wild as every other aspect of life there, with few exported, or even exportable, wines being produced. The curious exception is the extraordinary, classical-tasting sweet white Greco di Bianco (Bianco being the name of the main town in the production zone). The obvious exception is Cirò, which produces a deep, intense red. For long Librandi have been Calabria’s leading producers, rescuing near-extinct local vine varieties such as Magliocco.
That strong winemaking tradition has carried on in Abruzzo throughout the centuries, becoming imbued in the region’s very culture. For much of that history, winemaking has been centered in the Peligna Valley, an inland, mountainous part of central Abruzzo. Over the last 50 years, however, viticulture has begun to evolve and spread across the region, and the region is now gaining recognition for its intense, vibrant, and full-bodied wines.
Abruzzo is a natural haven for grape growing, with over 32,000 hectares of vines planted across the region. Bright, sunny days, a large diurnal shift, and moderating influences from the Apennine Mountains to the north and the Adriatic Sea to the east make it the perfect place for grapes to thrive.
Most Italian regions have if anything an embarrassment of riches when it comes to grape varieties. Tuscany is far more than Sangiovese, while Piedmont has numerous local varieties apart from Nebbiolo. By contrast, Basilicata’s quality wine scene is completely dominated by Aglianico and that from one DOC: del Vulture. Basilicata is Aglianico’s kingdom: here the robust, intensely age-worthy (and bottle-age requiring) Aglianico reigns supreme.
The Aglianico del Vulture region is sheltered by the volcano Monte Vulture which rises to the east of the region. The climate is markedly continental for Italy with a long, dry autumn, essential for a late-ripening variety like Aglianico. Big day/night temperature differences help to retain acidity and freshness in the fruit.
The Flight 4 - 8pm $16 for 5 pours with 3 additional for purchase.
San Giorgio Puglia Sangiovese 2024 $13 - San Giorgio Sangiovese di Puglia is an approachable, fruity red wine from the Puglia region of Italy, generally known for its bright ruby red color, notes of cherry, plum, and strawberry, and a smooth, medium-bodied palate.
Umani Ronchi Podere Montepulciano D'Abbruzzo 2024 $15 - A young and immediately drinkable wine: ruby red colour with violet tints. Robust and full-bodied in the mouth, slightly tannin-rich with a dry and flavourful finish.
Cantina Frentana DOC Montepulciano D’Abruzzo “Vallevó” 2024 $15 -This robust and chewy red from Abruzzo is 100% Montepulciano. Cantina Frentana is one of the top cooperatives in the region, and the warm and sunny days of Abruzzo provide optimal ripening conditions. The resulting wine is deeply colored and packed with notes of plum, dark cherry, blackberry, and a hint of spice.
Contini 2023 Cannonau di Sardegna "Tonaghe" $20 - Cannonau, aka Grenache, is Sardinia’s most important red varietal. Familiar aromatics of blackberry, plum, violets and provençal herbs greet you from the glass. The acidity effortlessly persists on the slightly rich palate with a lovely smooth texture that gently leads to a mildly sweet and herbal tannic finish.
Musto Carmelitano 2020 Aglianico del Vulture "Rosso Maschitano” $22 - 100% Aglianico. Earth forward aromas of black soil, sandalwood and cedar, blackcurrant, black pepper and smoked meat. The palate is robust, with thick set tannins that cry out for a rich cut of meat. There’s flavors of pitch black cherry, tar and graphite and iron-rich soil that lingers through the finish.
Bonus Wines
Ciro Picariello IGT Campania Falanghina 2024 $28 - Ciro Picariello’s 2024 Fiano Irpinia is a crisp, mineral-driven white that captures the cool, high-altitude character of Campania’s inland hills. The nose is delicate and precise, with notes of green apple, citrus peel, white flowers, and crushed herbs.
Societa Agricola Scala DOC Ciró Rosso Classico 2022 $25 - 100% Gaglioppo. Red and black fruit flavors. the wine is concentrated with flavors of blackberry and blueberry plum, cherry and herbal spice, with a distinctive purple flower overtone. ripe tannins and distinctive, full flavors and hearty.
Perillo Irpinia Aglianico DOC 2019 $45 - Taurasi is one of the most exciting, yet unheralded regions in Italy for bold red wines. Michele Perillo's cellar is in Castelfranci, in the south-east corner of the appellation, about half an hour away from the town of Taurasi. This is a rich and intense wine, with a complex array of aromas including red and black fruits, earth, spice and herbs. Though full in body with a long, velvety finish, this is a very approachable Aglianico.