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Friday Flight 10/10 4 - 8pm Gamay

  • Vino 137 Southeast 28th Avenue Portland, OR, 97214 United States (map)

Gamay

France

The Romans planted the first vines thousands of years ago in what is now known as the Beaujolais region. During the following centuries, Benedictine monks cultivated the vineyards, then local lords. Most of the wine made was consumed in the region or in the surrounding areas which were reachable by river. 

Beaujolais has a reputation as the less prestigious sibling to Burgundy, the highly-regarded wine region directly to the north that is home to the pinot noir grape. This dates back to 1395, when Philipe the Bold, a Duke of Burgundy, outlawed the cultivation of the gamay grape in Burgundy, calling it a “bad and disloyal” vine.

Gamay grapes ripen earlier and are easier to farm than finicky pinot noir, and Philipe believed they made for a lower quality wine than the “elegant” pinot noir. Gamay grows well in the granite soils of Beaujolais, where it was still allowed to be grown, so it became associated with the region.

Oregon

The story of Gamay in the Pacific Northwest is not a long one, first planted in the area by David Adelsheim in the 80s from clones he brought back from Burgundy. He was advised that the grape would thrive in the region's acidic soils, which it did, although Pinot Noir was still the dominant red varietal and remained the focus of many producers.

It's only been in the last 15 years or so that a growing number of winemakers have caught on, in part due to the fact that Gamay has adapted well to climate change and can now consistently reach maturity while retaining high acidity. It's also a grape that, as many lovers of natural wine know, is an ideal conduit of terroir and can express the personality of a place with great purity and honesty. Today Gamay still only makes up about 1% of plantings in the region, making it a rare gem and a special treat to have on our shelves.

The Flight 4 - 8pm $16 for 5 pours with 3 additional for purchase.

Frank Besson "Granite" Brut Rosé Beaujolais $27 - Franck Besson is a unique producer in Beaujolais: a specialist in traditional-method sparkling wine production. He inherited 4 hectares of high elevation vineyards from his father-in-law, just outside the Cru Juliénas.

Domaine Lucien Lardy Beaujolais-Villages “Vignes De 1951” 2022 $19 - Nestled on 5 acres, the vineyard boasts 4000 vines per acre, thriving over 60 years on the «Les Peloux» plot. Pale purple color in the glass. The nose is very fruity with blackcurrant notes. In the palate, the wine is very fruity, supple with a bright and mineral finish.

Timothy Malone Gamay Jubilee Eola-Amity 2022 $24 - Mineral-accented raspberry, cherry and floral aromas are complemented by a baking spice note that builds as the wine opens up. Silky and concentrated yet nervy.

Laurent Perrachon Village 2023 $$17 - Bright fruit meets with strawberry-cranberry aromas on the nose followed by dried orange peel.

Scenic Valley Farms Gamay Willamette Valley 2024 $$21 - Brambly red fruit. Crunchy raspberry, strawberry and bright acid.

Bonus Wines

Céline & Nicolas Hirsch Julienas 2023 $24 - Juliénasis an appellation covering wines produced from vineyards in the north of the Beaujolais region of eastern France. The red, Gamay-based wines of Juliénas often show characters of spice, flowers and red fruit.

Belle Pente Gamay Willamette Valley 2022 $28 - Gamay grapes are the last to be harvested in our estate vineyard, and the fruit for this 2022 rendition was picked on October 12th. We retained about 40% of the whole clusters, with the balance gently destemmed. Even with the cool growing season, the fruit achieved full ripeness while retaining it's distinctive "gamay-ness". Look for primary grape flavors and spicy aromas, medium body, and freshness on the palate.

Anne-Sophie Dubois Fleurie Les Labourons 2023 $39 - Perched at altitude in the windswept hills above Fleurie, Les Labourons is Anne-Sophie Dubois’ flagship parcel—a steep, granitic vineyard she farms organically and vinifies with a Burgundian hand. The 2023 vintage shows her hallmark precision and restraint: 100% destemmed Gamay, native fermentations, and aging in used barrels that frame the wine without clouding its purity.

It opens with violets, crushed raspberries, and a flicker of spice, but the real story is in the structure—fine tannins, stony tension, and a slow-building depth that makes this far more than just a pretty Fleurie. It’s delicate but not fragile, vibrant but serious.

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Flaneur Winery

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Chateau de la Font du Loup